Reviewing Athens

Agora

A week in Athens isn’t nearly long enough to see all of the monuments, ruins, points of interest, as well as sample all of the food options in the city. I also didn’t get to do more than glance at the sea shore or peek at some of the coastline. In August I thought one time in Athens was plenty, but I may have to make a return trip some fall or spring! For information about my rating system of where we stayed, what we ate, and what we did, see Reading the Reviews.

Where we stayed:

Four carrots

Hilton Athens (46 Vassilissis Sofias Avenue, Athens, 11528, Greece, +30-210-7281000) is a lovely facility, and our room overlooked the

Top L to R: Bedroom, Bath
Bottom: Parthenon from our balcony

Parthenon. It was great getting to sit on the balcony for a few minutes each morning having coffee. And when I say a few minutes that’s exactly what I mean. By 9 AM it was already uncomfortably warm, even in the shade. The room was well appointed, as was the bath; the internet worked well. The only hitch came when we checked in. We were greeted as lepers who had arrived too early; this was quite unusual for a Hilton staff, particularly when my traveling companion is at the highest Hilton club level. Our breakfasts were to be included, but that didn’t happen until three days later. Finally, we found a manager and discussed the manner in which we’d been treated. When we went downstairs that morning we found the entire front desk staff had been changed. These people were smiling, courteous to everyone, and outgoing. When we checked, our bill had been adjusted to delete the breakfast charges and with a day’s room fee removed. It does pay to courteously talk to someone in charge. The rating I gave this hotel early on was two carrots, but after our chat with the manager and the changes to staff, I have increased my rating.

What we did:

Four and one half carrots

Acropolis, Erechtheum, and the Parthenon (Athens 105 58, Greece)

L to R: Parthenon, Erechtheum

are what you come to Athens to see. You can buy a ticket and get in early in the morning without taking a tour, but unless you’re well versed in ancient history you’ll miss why this area is socially and historically significant. I did find out that the temperature on top of the Acropolis the day we visited was 110^oF – a bit toasty, and probably the reason that the Greeks wore togas. I didn't know that there was a complete village around the temples up on the top. Evidently people wanted to be close to their temples. I'd have put in an elevator, forget the steeply angled roads! There were oodles of people running around with flip flops, no hats, no sunscreen, and no water. And this is the reason they have medics all over the site; we actually had a lady faint even though she had sufficient water, a hat, and good shoes. There was a water fountain at the top where you could refill your water bottle. Of course, I drank all of my refill before I got back to the bottom. The site wasn't as crowded as I expected – a good thing. The Greek government regulates the price of bottled water so that it doesn't get more expensive the closer to the top of the hill. It's all 50 cents (€). They also regulate who can and cannot sell tickets to the under 18 visitors. It seems that the tour companies were buying up a bunch of kids’ tickets and selling them at full price; so some good things have from the government. According to our guide, Athena was the goddess of the strategy of war, whereas Aries (along with Demos and Phoebes) was a homicidal maniac; somehow that’s not particularly surprising. One of the temples, the Erechtheum, has a set of six ladies used as columns, but because they have thin necks, they had to give them honking big hair styles around their necks so that the pillars wouldn't fall down. And just so you know, the Parthenon in Nashville is the most accurate copy of the one here – it's even got the curved lines in the walls to make the columns look even from different angles.

Costas Taxi (Constantine – 0030-6945968413; Harry – 0030-4937489390) As I came out of the funicular a cabbie, Constantine waved me to his cab and became my best friend. He took me to the Benaki Museum at no charge. Later he came to the hotel to take Barb, Karen, and me shopping. He picked Barb and me to take us to our tour. And his brother, Harry, took us to the airport for our flight to Rhodes at 3:30 AM. These gentlemen gave us excellent service, some souvenirs, and a lot of laughs. Some of the best advice I can give travelers is if you can find a cabbie you like, get his number and only ride with that person. You’ll go to places you didn’t know existed, learn lots about the culture and the city, find restaurants that are wonderful, and be completely cared for during your visit. If I ever go back to Athens, I’ll call Constantine or Harry as soon as I step off of the plane!

Four carrots

The Acropolis Museum (Dionysiou Areopagitou 15, Athina 117 42, Greece) was supposed to open for the 2004 Olympics, but during

Top L to R: Goddess, Accountants, more Accountants
Bottom: Ruins beneath the museum

construction a major archeological site was found under the building. This year the facility finally opened in its entirety, along with access to this new site. I got into the museum on a tour and really wished there had been time to see the facility in its entirety. My favorite part I did see was the top level. It is there that the Parthenon pediments are displayed with superb views of the Parthenon, itself. The other structure that has been moved from the Acropolis to the museum is the set of columns shaped like women with the giant hairdos to strengthen their necks; these are from the Erechtheum. It’s interesting what they will and won't let you take pictures of - I thought it was because some of the statues are painted, but that's not necessarily the case; I think that it's rather random. Of course we made it to the museum store and helped the economy; however, everything is really reasonable except for the t-shirts that are €20. We found similar shirts in town that are about €10.

Benaki Museum (Koumpari 1, Athina 106 74, Greece, +30 21 0367

Top L to R: Gold laurel, Red pots, Sphinx
Bottom L to R: Paintings, Rabbits

1000) ‘established and endowed in 1930 by Antonis Benakis in memory of his father Emmanuel Benakis, is housed in the Benakis family mansion in downtown Athens, Greece. The museum houses Greek works of art from the prehistorical to the modern times, an extensive collection of Asian art, hosts periodic exhibitions and maintains a state-of-the-art restoration and conservation workshop. Although the museum initially housed a collection that included Islamic art, Chinese porcelain and exhibits on toys, its 2000 re-opening led to the creation of satellite museums that focused on specific collections, allowing the main museum to focus on Greek culture over the span of the country's history.’ I visited this museum after I’d climbed the hill to the funicular and met the person who was to be my driver in Athens. To say I needed a cool, relaxing place to spend some time was an understatement. I thoroughly enjoyed the collection housed here and wanted to see the satellite museums, but my time in Athens was limited. There’s always a purpose for going back to a place, and these museums are a very good reason.

Museum of Cycladic Art (Neofitou Douka 4, Athina 106 74, Greece, +30 21 0722 8321) houses the collection of Cycladic and Ancient Greek art that belongs to Nicholas and Dolly Goulandris. I had no idea what to

Top L to R: Cycladic statues, White bull
Bottom L to R: Ancient pot with Picasso's interpretation,
Golden necklace

expect of Cycladic art, but I thought I had a good handle on ancient Greek art; what I found was a well curated mix of the two cultures with a bit of Picasso thrown into the medley. The Cycladic culture is ancient, flourishing from c. 3300 to 1100 BCE on the islands in the Aegean Sea. The Minoan civilization, Mycenaean Greece people, and the Cycladic culture are the three major Aegean cultures comprising the three main branches of Aegean art. The best known type of Cycladic artwork that survived is the marble, full-length female figurine with arms folded across the chest. I was glad I wandered down to the Museum because the art was interesting, educational, and they know about air conditioning.

Three and one half carrots

We saw the changing of the guard at the tomb of the Unknown Soldier

Top L to R: Parliament, Soldier
Bottom: Soldiers

in front of the Parliament; pompom shoes, skirts and all! This ceremony was lovely. It’s only the enlisted men who wear those particular uniforms and they are required to iron the 400 pleats themselves. The officers not only don’t have to take care of their own uniforms, but they don’t wear the skirts or pompom shoes. The soldiers standing guard at the Parliament only do short shifts in the summer because of the heat.

When you travel with librarians you’re going to go poking around libraries; and that’s quite alright with me. Hadrian's Library (Areos 3, Τ.Κ. 105 55,

L to R: Hadrian's Library, Hadrian's Arch

Athina, Greece, +30 21 0324 9350) was built on the north side of the Acropolis by Roman Emperor Hadrian in AD 132. The was in a typical Roman Forum architectural style, with only one entrance, a high surrounding wall with protruding niches, and an inner courtyard surrounded by columns. The actual library was on the eastern side of the structure where rolls of papyrus were filed. Attached halls were reading rooms, with the corners serving as lecture halls. We wandered all over trying to find these ruins and realized when we did that we’d only been a couple of streets away in our searches.

We picked up the Hop on Hop off Bus just outside the Hilton. We rode

Olympic Stadium, one of the stops

the bus all over Athens and out to the sea. As expected the Aegean was a gorgeous color, but the beaches reminded me of a rocky Corpus Christi (Texas). We didn’t get off at any particular stop simply because we wanted to see an overview of the area – and this is a good way to do it. During our ride, we found it unbearably hot on the upper level, so on the ride back we scooted down to the air conditioned level and did our best to stay awake until we made it back to one of the main stops near old town. It was there that we discovered a very nice place for a snack.

Lycabettus Funicular (Ploutarchou 66, Athina 106 76, Greece, +30 21 0721 0701) ‘is a funicular railway to the top of Mount Lycabettus ... It was

Top L to R: Steep stairs, Athens
Bottom L to R: St George and Dragon, St George church

constructed in the 1960s by the Greek Tourist Organization and was inaugurated on April 18, 1965.’ I wandered around in 99+ degree weather looking for the funicular which was at the top of stairs reminiscent of those near the Sacre Cour, but steeper. On the way up I chatted with some Italian women in broken Italian/English; we agreed that we were pazza (crazy) to be climbing the steps instead of taking a taxi up to the entrance. There is a nice little gift shop where you buy your tickets and can get cold water, soft drinks and a few snacks. Once on the funicular I met a nice couple from Melbourne; we decided it was bloody hot! From the top the views were amazing. There was also a pretty little chapel that needs some restoration.

What we ate:

Four carrots

Aethrion Lounge (46 Vassilissis Sofias Avenue, Athens, 11528, Greece,

L to R: Menu, Avocado

+30-210-7281000) was open when we arrived from our flight and was a great place for our first meal in Athens. We split an open faced turkey and avocado sandwich with a side of slaw. It was wonderful. Service was a bit slow, but not horrible. We also had breakfast in this area and it was simply amazing, although expensive.

Barb and I went for a long walk from the Hilton over to the old town where lots of the shops and eateries are located. It was hot, but downhill; I got

Top L to R: Restaurant, Hummus, Octopus
Bottom: Hummus, Cheese pie

Barb to agree that it's easier to walk in kilometers than miles...when Barb realized what she’d agreed to she called me a smart ass – an accurate assessment. After some retail therapy we chose a place called Ergon House (23, Mitropoleos Street, Athina 105 57, Greece, +30 21 0010 9090) to eat. Above it is a boutique hotel I'd stay at in a flash just because of its location. The food was excellent. I had grilled octopus and lentils; Barb had hummus and a cheese pie with honey drizzled on it. We ate until we nearly popped. The walk back up hill was really slow, but at least it was cooler.

Oroscopo Restaurant (Antinoros 42-44, Athina 161 21, Greece, +30 21

Left T to B: Menu, Calamari, Duck
Center T to B: Soup, Salad
Right T to B: Dips and wine, Fish

0721 6458) is an ‘Uncomplicated Greek & European dishes in a modern, air-con restaurant, also with terrace seating.’ The night we visited we sat outside at a rather windy table, catching our bread as it flew from the plate. However, the food was lovely. Everything came with soup, a spread made of beets and one made of beans, and a salad. Among us we had calamari, duck, and sea bass. The wine was nice, as well. The service, as is common in the Mediterranean, was a bit slow.

At the Public Café (Karagiorgi Servias 1, Athina 105 63, Greece, +30 21 0323 9101) we snacked on pomegranate green tea and waffle bites

Left T to B: Menu, Waffle bites
Right Tea

covered with warm chocolate sauce, strawberries, banana slices, and raspberry sorbet. It was amazing! Thank goodness we split it! From the café we could see the Parliament building and the changing of the guard at the tomb of the Unknown Soldier.

Three and one half carrots

Anafiotika Cafe – Restaurant (Mnisikleous 24, Athina 105 56, Greece,

Left T to B: Parthenon, Chicken
Center: Menu, Wine
Right: Water

+30 21 0324 4428) is one of those places with rooftop dining. The night we visited it was jammed! We had a reservation, and it was still a short wait. The service was slow simply because of the large numbers of people dining. The view from the roof was lovely, and since it was after dark, the temperature was very comfortable. My only complaint was that it’s difficult to read a packed menu by candlelight. The chicken I had was good, but I think I’d order something different on a subsequent visit.

Where we shopped:

Old town Athens is jam packed with places to shop. We looked in them all, but didn’t go into most of them. Everything appeared clean and attractive with good prices. Keep in mind that these folks, while in the European Union, do not have a strong economy. They are laboring under a government that has drastically changed in a relatively short time, reconstructing the manner in which they have been paid, how long they have to work, and whether they may or may not retire. To a person, they were pleasant, kind, and quite willing to negotiate the price you pay depending on whether you use a credit card, pay in euros, or pay in dollars.

Four and one half carrots

Dimitrios Exclusive (Ypsilantou 8, Athens 10675, Greece) was the place Constantine and Harry took us to shop. We were treated like royalty! They had cold drinks as well as wine and beer to sip on as we wandered through the shop admiring the jewelry. The owner showed us all sorts of luscious pieces and made helpful recommendations about which would fit with our coloring, personalities, and pocketbooks. He knew what he was about, making our shopping both educational and entertaining. We later found out that he has outlets all over the world with wonderful pieces carefully designed to be pieces of art to wear.

Four carrots

A Sports (Adrianou 73, Athina 105 56, Greece, +30 21 0325 1935) has a lower level that is a real treat! While you wait they will put your name in

L to R: Exterior and Interior of A. Sport

Greek on a t-shirt. Actually they will put anything you’d like n a t-shirt. We drug almost everyone we knew into this shop for t-shirts, souvenirs, and to talk to the guys who work there. The shirts are of good quality and the prices are very good.

Forget Me Not (Adrianou 100, Athina 105 58, Greece, +30 21 0325

Exterior of Forget Me Not

3740) is a ‘Cool gift shop showcasing an array of locally designed clothing, art & home accessories.’ There are two levels with two separate doors and separate types of goods in the different rooms. This shop carries things that not common and rather higher quality than in many of the souvenir shops.

Statement inside of the Museum of Cycladic Arts

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