Once again, our tour of Quebec City was too
short to really learn much
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Colors of fall above a marina |
about the city; happily that requires a return trip! I was delighted to hear French
spoken and gratified that I could make myself understood, at least enough to
find a restroom and a gift shop. Although it wasn’t a particularly warm or
sunny day, the old city was lovely, especially the Château Frontenac Hotel and
its environs.
The Algonquian people had originally named the
area Kébec, meaning ‘where the river narrows’, since this is where the Saint
Lawrence River…narrows. Quebec
City, one of the oldest European settlements in North
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Statue commemorating Samuel de Champlain |
America, is still
surrounded by walls that were used in its early days to keep out marauders. In 1541, explorer Jacques
Cartier, along with some 400 followers, founded Fort
Charlesbourg-Royal; however, the local weather and the natives were quite
hostile, so the site was abandoned within the year. But if the French were to
stay in North America, a fort had to be established, and indeed it was, relocated
to near the mouth of the Rivière du Cap Rouge. Some 60 odd years later, Samuel de
Champlain, a French explorer and diplomat, founded Quebec on the site of an
abandoned St. Lawrence Iroquoian settlement, and this time the city prospered.
The icon of the old city is the Château Frontenac
Hotel. This hotel along with the Old City of Quebec was named a Canadian National
Historic Site in January 1981 and a UNESCO
site in 1985. But Château Frontenac was not the first hotel built on this spot.
Built during the 1780s the
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Top L and R: Exterior of the hotel Bottom L to R: Interior of the hotel, Street in the Old City |
Château Haldimand overlooked the city and hosted
visitors for about 100 years, then the British governor general of Canada
decided it was time to restore the capital city to the architecture from the 17th
century. This plan floundered, due to lack of leadership and money, until
business men with connections to the Canadian Pacific Railway took control. The
hotel was designed by American architect Bruce Price
with William
Van Horne, the general manager and a key developer of Canadian Pacific
Railway's hotel system, overseeing the construction. The Châteauesque
architectural style used throughout the hotel has the typical asymmetrical
profile, steeply pitched roofs, massive circular and polygonal towers and
turrets, ornate gables and dormers, and tall chimneys, The Château Frontenac is
one of Canada's grand railway hotels; it would serve as a prototype for other
Canadian grand railway hotels built in the late-18th to early-20th centuries. The outside of the hotel is mostly
grey stone ashlar,
with steel spines running up the building. Inside there are mahogany paneling,
marble staircases, carved stone, wrought iron, and glass roundels everywhere
you look. While there are Gothic elements in the architecture, the hotel also pulls
in Victorian style architectural elements, as well. While the Château Frontenac
was completed in 1893, the last of the Canadian Pacific Railway's Chateauesque
hotels was completed a mere five years later in 1908. The Château Frontenac hotel
was expanded in 1924 and again in 1993. Between these two expansions/
renovations, in 1943 and 1944 the First and Second Quebec
Conferences were held and attended by World War II Allies including President
Franklin
Delano Roosevelt, British Prime Minister Winston Churchill,
and Canadian Prime Minister William
Lyon Mackenzie King. A less illustrious group met in 1953 for the filming
of Alfred Hitchcock's
film, I Confess, starring Montgomery
Clift and Anne
Baxter.
The
Plains of Abraham are not far from
old Quebec. The battle fought here decided, at least for a moment, who would
control Quebec. This
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A portion of the Plains of Abraham |
campagne has a host of names: the Battle of the Plains of
Abraham, the Battle of Quebec, or if you prefer the French, Bataille des
Plaines d'Abraham, et Première bataille de Québec. It was one of the pivotal encounters
in the Seven
Years' War or if you lived in the US, the French
and Indian War. This engagement was fought on September 13, 1759, by the
British Army and Navy against the French Army on land owned Abraham Martin,
hence the name of the battle. There were less than 10,000 troops between both
sides, but the conflict decided the destiny of New France. The culmination of a
three-month siege by the British, the fighting lasted only about an hour. Both General James Wolfe and General
Louis-Joseph Marquis de Montcalm were fatally wounded during the battle.
Wolfe died at the beginning of the fighting, moments after being wounded by three
gunshots; Montcalm died the next morning from a musket ball wound just below
his ribs. In the wake of the battle, the French surrendered to the British
forces. However, the Battle of
Sainte-Foy, also called the Battle of Quebec, was fought on April 28, 1760.
This time the French, led by Chevalier
de Lévis (François-Gaston), went into combat against General
James Murray and the British; the French won. There were many more casualties
than in the Battle of the Plains of Abraham; 833 French lost their lives, as
did 1,124 British soldiers. Quebec City was returned to the French and has been
the capital of Quebec province ever since.
Since it was close to Halloween, the decorations
in gardens and parks abounded. Evidently the folks in Quebec like this holiday
as well as the people in the states.
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L to R: Painted trees, Ghost and weeping willow |
Now on to Saguenay and our coldest, wettest day of the trip…
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Fall colors near Quebec City |
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