Across the Bay Bridge is the municipality of
Oakland. As complex as San Francisco, it has a
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Getting on the Bay Bridge |
completely different flair.
There are neighborhoods rather than Districts and the downtown has a much more
industrial feel to it. With the same background as the other cities (Huchiun
Indians then Spanish settlers, then part of Mexico, and finally claimed by the
US) Oakland was
originally called encinal, Spanish for ‘oak grove’, because of the extensive
oak forest that covered the area. The Oakland Long Wharf at Oakland Point and
the major terminus for the Central Pacific Railroad proved the wisdom of Horace
Carpentier, Edson Adams, and Andrew Moon in establishing the city in the
mid-1800s. Other entrepreneurs, such as Francis "Borax" Smith
developed a streetcar company; other such innovations as electric service and
telephones connected Oakland and Berkeley, making both cities desirable places
to live and work. By 1920, Oakland boasted many manufacturing industries,
including metals, canneries, bakeries, internal combustion engines,
automobiles, and shipbuilding. A short nine years later, Chrysler added another
automobile manufacturing plant, making Oakland the ‘Detroit of the West’. Thankfully,
it has not suffered the same fate as Detroit.
World War II brought even more industry
including dry docks, and expanded canning,
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Left T to B: Downtown Oakland, Ferry landing at sunset
Right: Odd building in Oakland |
preserving, and packing companies.
The population in Oakland and surrounding areas was booming. From 1940 to 1970
the migration of the poor from southern states not only brought in a mix of
cultures and ethnicities, but some deeply ingrained hatred of minorities. In
1943 Oakland was plagued by the ‘zoot suit riots’. By the 1960s, racial
tensions had not eased; students Huey Newton and Bobby Seale founded the Black
Panther Party at Merritt College,
emphasizing black power and the need of African Americans to take care of their
own community. These problems persisted through the 70s and 80s allowing for
the increase in drug related violence and property crime. The firestorm that
swept through Berkley in 1991 also affected Oakland destroying as many as 4,000
homes and leaving thousands homeless. Throughout the rest of the 1990s
Oakland’s economy has been in very slow recovery. The new century has continued
to see slow growth, with still low sales, rentals and occupancy rates in the
downtown area.
One of the projects aimed at providing venues
for businesses and employment opportunities
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Top L to R: Statue of Buck, London's Klondike cabin
Bottom L to R: USS Potomac, Heinold's First and Last Chance Saloon |
is Jack
London Square. It is owned by the Port of Oakland and has it is the home of
stores, restaurants, hotels, an Amtrak station, a ferry dock for the San
Francisco Bay Ferry, the historic Heinold's First and Last Chance Saloon, the cabin
that Jack London lived in the Klondike, and a
movie theater. The former presidential yacht, USS Potomac, is moored at an
adjacent slip. This formerly industrial neighborhood has undergone significant
rehabilitation, including loft conversions and new construction making it one
of the success stories in Oakland’s economy.
My time spent in San Francisco, Berkeley, and
Oakland was definitely too short to sample
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Succulent |
all these interesting cities had to
offer. However, I did get to see plenty of interesting things and sample just a
smattering of the culinary delights available. For information about my rating
system, see Reading
the Reviews.
Where we stayed:
Of course, the best place I stayed was with my friends, Teri and John. Not only was their
hospitality wonderful, but being entertained by Willy, Waylon, Pepper, and Boo
was over the top!
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Three carrots |
Crown Plaza Hotel (1177 Airport Boulevard, Burlingame, CA 94010,
650-342-9200) is the same hotel we stayed in last year. The rooms are comfortable,
although they are a bit expensive. I was rather disappointed with their pick-up
service at the airport; supposedly the van runs every 15 minutes; we waited
about an hour. While you have to pay for parking, it is reasonable and you can
come and go as you please.
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Left: Bathroom Right: Bedroom |
What we did:
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Four carrots |
Cliff’s Variety
(79 Castro Street, San Francisco, CA 94114, 415-431-5365) is a social event!
While they offer plenty of unusual items at reasonable prices, the biggest
treat is the selection of tiaras. Even if you buy nothing, it’s fun to wander
the isles and to people watch.
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Three and one-half carrots |
General Bead (637
Minna Street, San Francisco, CA 94103, 415-621-8187) is one of the
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Left: General Bead entrance
Center T to B: Wall of beads, Flower spot
Right: Mural outside |
must-see
places for beaders. It’s in a part of town that you only want to go to during
the day and probably with a friend. Once you get inside you’ll have
bead-overload; there’s not much they don’t have. One of the rules is that you
much stand on the flower to get help with your purchases. Make sure that you
take a list, otherwise you’ll spend hours and either come away with nothing or
with much more than you intended. My only negative is that you have to write
down what you want and have it pulled – you cannot, for the most part, simply
select what you want and put it in your basket.
Jack London Square (Broadway, Oakland, CA 94607, 510-645-9292) is
a really interesting place. Besides having Jack London focused things to see
and do, there are lovely sculptures, lanes to stroll down by the water, and
oodles of places to eat and/or imbibe. It’s a good place just to hang out.
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Urchin sculpture and fountain |
North Waterfront Park (near 11 Spinnaker Way, North of the west end
of University Avenue, Berkeley Marina) is a beautiful place to see San
Francisco Bay up close. There are lovely trails near the water and across
hills. When we were there, people were hiking, walking dogs, and folks practicing
tai chi. There is also a marina and places to eat. It’s quiet, peaceful, and a
nice place to get away from the city.
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Tai chi by the Bay |
What we ate:
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Four carrots |
Finn Town Tavern (2251 Market Street, San Francisco, CA 94114,
415-626-3466) is a great deal more up-scale that what you’d think for a tavern.
And this is one place that you will need a reservation even on non-peak hours
just to make sure that you get in at a
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Left T to B: Menu, Buffalo shrimp
Center T to B: Lobster rolls, Chicken sandwich
Right: Stuffed eggs |
reasonable time. The evening we went,
our choices of reservation times were 5:45 or 10:45 PM and the only places left
were at the bar. And good seats they were: we got to watch what was happening
in the kitchen, see the wait staff run in and out, and get a good look at all
the different offerings the restaurants provides. We decided to share plates,
partly to be able to sample different dishes but also because this is a pricy
place. Teri, Sue and I began with stuffed eggs as an appetizer. This is the ‘in
thing’ in San Francisco. What made these different was the spicy sauce that
accompanied them. Teri got the Cornflake Crusted Fried Chicken Sandwich with Chesapeake
aioli, brioche, pickles, fries; the chicken was huge, but rather than being a
dried out patty, it was moist with a very definite flavor. The fries were good,
also. Sue got Buffalo Shrimp; they were spicy and plentiful. I ordered the
Lobster Rolls and was surprised that they were more like flautas than the rolls
you get in the Northeast; they were quite tasty. We were all quite happy with
our meals and with the service.
Mingalaba Restaurant (1213 Burlingame Avenue, Burlingame, CA 94010,
650-343-3228) was so good last year that we decided to pay a return visit. As
with last year, there was a 20
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Top L to R: Menu, House noodles
Bottom L to R: Tea Leaf salad, Okra and shrimp |
to 30 minute wait. However, it was definitely
worth staying. This place serves a lot of food, so sharing among three people
is no problem. We began with the Tea Leaf Salad. The flavor is unforgettable and
unmistakable; the texture is nutty. We all loved it. Next we shared the House
Noodles that came with coconut chicken, lime leaves, yellow pea’s powder, onion
and fried thin noodle on the top. It was oh-so-good! And finally, for our vegetable, we ate fried okra and shrimp; it was as good as
it was different. Once you’re seated, service is good. Prices are right in line
for the food and service presented.
Picán Restaurant (2295 Broadway, Oakland, CA 94612, 510-834-1000)
was a real surprise. Teri and John told me it was southern cooking, but what I
didn’t realize was that
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Top L to R: Blue Bayou ravioli, Cornbread, Shrimp and grits
Bottom L to R: Pork belly, Fried chicken, Cheesecake |
this was a very nice restaurant. The man playing the
piano was excellent and the music was a selection of oldies from the 60s
through the 80s. It was perfect for the ambiance of the restaurant. We started
with the Warm Artichoke, Shrimp and Louisiana Blue Crab
Dip that included garlic-parmesan cream, and was accompanied grilled country
bread; it was quite good as were the accompanying breads. Teri had
been wanting to try the Southern Fried Chicken with smoked Gouda mac ‘n cheese;
she said it was fantastic. John ordered the Braised Pork Belly on bed of
braised savoy cabbage with raisins, apples, and maple gastrique; while it was
more than any human could eat in one sitting, he said it was excellent. I
decided on the Gulf Shrimp and Logan Turnpike Mill Grits; the shrimp were
cooked just right and the grits were quite tasty. For dessert there was a
cheesecake with fruit; it was good, too. Service was excellent, as it should
have been in this upscale restaurant.
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Three and one-half carrots |
Ici Ice Cream (2948
College Avenue, Berkeley, CA 94705, 510-665-6054) is one of those
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Left: Window sign
Right T to B: Parlor, Curry ice cream |
delicious
temptations that is set right next to restaurants so that you can tell yourself
you’ve walked off your lunch so it’s time for dessert. They have a wide range
of ice cream flavors; some of them are quite different. Teri ordered a small
scoop of curry ice cream – and three spoons. I was pleasantly surprised at the
flavor of this dessert. You got the curry flavor, but with the cream and sweet
it was delightful!
La Mediterranee (2936 College Avenue, Berkeley, CA 94705, 510-540-7773)
is a cute little
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Top L to R: Menu, Fillo
Bottom L to R: Appetizer, Middle Eastern Plate |
restaurant in the heart of Berkeley; it’s been in existence for
30 years and has several locations. We began with a mixed plate of appetizers
that included hummus, baba ghanoush, tabbouleh, cheese, olives, and pita bread;
there was more than enough for three and it was really good. John’s Middle
Eastern Plate was packed with a combination of chicken cilicia fillo, grecian
spinach and feta fillo, a levant sandwich and lamb lule; he said it was
amazing. Teri and I got the fillos. They came with a bowl of soup – lemon chicken
with lots of rice; tart and savory, it was very good. Teri chose the Fillo
Combination: chicken Cilicia, spinach and feta, and cheese Karni. I got the Chicken
Cilicia Fillo Dough Specialty that not only had chicken, but nuts, raisins,
cinnamon, and spices. She and I agreed that our meals were very good.
Max’s Restaurant and Bar (1250 Old Bayshore Highway, Burlingame, CA
94010-1805, 650-342-6297) reminded me of a Denny’s so I didn’t expect much more
than that from the
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Top L to R: Bread, Menu, Cobb salad
Bottom L to R: Puppa, Caesar salad |
menu. I was wrong. We started with fresh, warm bread and an
order of Tuna Avocado Puppa that reminded me of the food I’d gotten in Hawaii.
Since we knew we’d attend a dessert reception that evening we decided to eat
lightly. Teri had a Cobb salad and I had a Caesar salad; both were made with
fresh vegetables and not soaked in dressing. We agreed that lunch was very good
and that the service was efficient. We’d both eat there again.
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Wine glass |
Rosenblum Cellars (10 Clay Street, Oakland, CA 94607, 877-478-9467)
is basically a wine bar with snacks. However, the view was lovely and our
waiter was excellent. The wines were very good and weren’t particularly
expensive. This restaurant sits next to the ferry terminal so draws crowds when
the ferry arrives, but we weren’t rushed although we were nursing a glass of
wine and didn’t order food. It was calm, relaxing atmosphere.
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Three carrots |
Heinold's First and Last Chance Saloon (Jack London Square, 48 Webster Street,
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Hats and Ship on ceiling |
Oakland, CA 94607, 510-839-6761) with a slanted floor caused by an earthquake.
Seating is limited as is the menu. The main draw is the saloon, itself. It was
opened by John (Johnny) M. Heinold in 1883. It was literally the first or the
last chance for sailors to get alcohol as they were landing or sailing. It’s a
pretty funky place!
Mountain Mike’s Pizza (10750 San Pablo Avenue, El Cerrito, CA 94530, 510-526-6000)
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Left to Right: Pizza box, Pizza |
serves a really good pie. Teri and John had this delivered to their house and
it was the perfect accompaniment to glasses of red wine, good conversation, and
curious cats. One of the nice things about the area in which Teri and John live
is that any place that does take-out can also have their food delivered to your
door. I’ll be happy when that comes to Keller!
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Top: Menu Bottom: Burrito |
Taqueria La Cumbre (515 Valencia Street, San Francisco, CA 94110,
415-863-8205) is where the original Mission style burrito. This one time meat
market still retains the fixtures from that business, but they have been
converted into stove tops on which to cook meats. Teri and I got the burritos; mine was chicken with rice, beans, and a
bit of salsa; and while it was good, it wasn’t as spicy or flavorful as I had
expected. What I really did like was the ‘Mexican’ Coca Cola, made with real
sugar rather than corn syrup. The chips and salsa were okay, but not
outstanding. I’d got back to try something different from their menu.
West Bay Restaurant and Bar in the Crown Plaza Hotel (1177 Airport Boulevard,
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Left: Food from the catered buffet
Right: Swan cream puff |
Burlingame, CA 94010, 650-342-9200) hasn’t gotten any better in regard to the
food or the service than it was last year. This is a stunning contrast to the
food prepared for the beading group. Everything presented to our group was very
good and the service was passable. I was particularly pleased with the desserts
that ranged from pastries to fruit. My recommendation is if you have time, eat
elsewhere for breakfast and dinner. Take advantage of the catering since it’s
the best of the lot; for this reason the restaurant wasn’t given a rating of
two carrots.
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