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Entering St John's harbor |
We didn’t arrive in this pretty city until noon,
but we stayed until 8:00PM. Getting into the harbor is fun in that we came
through the narrows where you could see the eyes of the birds nesting on the
banks. St. John's is an interesting town
with most everything built up the hills from the harbor, which is quite small;
it is the capital and largest city in Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada. St.
John's is also one of North America's oldest settlements. However, people didn’t
begin living here year-round until sometime after 1630 but seasonal habitation can
be traced back to between 1494 and 1545 (depending on whose records you read). The
English fishermen who had seasonal camps in Newfoundland in the 16th
Century were forbidden by the British government from creating permanent homes
along the English controlled coast, which is the reason that St. John's was late
in becoming a town.
Our tour, which I would not do again because it
was over-priced for what we got, took us up to Signal Hill. This is the
location of Cabot Tower which was built in 1897 to commemorate
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Left: Cabot Tower Right T to B: Harbor and cruise ship, Houses in business zone |
the 400th
anniversary of John Cabot's discovery of Newfoundland, and Queen Victoria's
Diamond Jubilee. There were great views of the city and the harbor and I’d have
liked to have taken a walk or two, but we only had about 20 minutes. Signal
Hill is so named because the first transatlantic wireless transmission was
received here by Guglielmo Marconi on December 12, 1901. This is not the only 1st
to which St John’s holds claim. It was the starting point for the first
non-stop transatlantic aircraft flight. In June 1919, John Alcock and Arthur
Brown left Lester's Field in a modified Vickers Vimy IV bomber; they landed in
a bog near Clifden, Connemara, Ireland. It wasn’t a pretty landing, but at
least they walked away and they set a new world’s record. Although the original
Lester’s Field is now in a suburb, we did drive by the area and through the
streets where the first business zone developed. The houses here are quaint and
colorful, but I really didn’t see that they were especially ‘Victorian’; they
looked more like the houses you’d find in Maine. Although St. John's has had
its share of fires, wars, and other upheavals, it was seriously affected in the
1990s by the collapse of the Northern cod fishery. This had been the driving
force of the economy for hundreds of years and it has taken a significant
length of time, along with the influx of jobs from the nearby oil fields to re-start
population growth and commercial development.
We did get a chance to see the exterior of
several churches and historic buildings before we
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Top L to R: The Rooms, Sea Woman Bottom: Sled, spinning wheel, crib |
were dropped off at The Rooms, a natural history/history/art
museum. The building is named for its architecture that harkens back to
gable-roofed sheds called ‘fishing rooms’. These were once common along the
waterline in fishing villages. The construction of this structure was not
without conflict. It sits on the site of Fort Townshend an 18th-century
military fort. This National Historic Site of Canada which was once one of the
largest British fortifications in North America, then at one time housed of the
Royal Newfoundland Constabulary, and finally the St. John's Fire Department was
buried beneath the museum. The Rooms has an interesting mix of ancient and
modern displays with a current exhibition of WWI thrown in.
As we walked down the hill to get back to the boat and
hunted for souvenir places which are
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Left T to B: Mermaid mural, Whale mural Right T to B: Dog statues, Wharf speed |
surprisingly scarce, we stopped to see
the monuments to veterans and to dogs. Of course, I had to rub the dogs’ noses.
It was a lovely walk and I quite like this town. We did discover a wonderful
area in which the buildings had murals. I liked the mermaid; Dave liked the
whale. There is a lot more to see in St John’s and the surrounding area, so we
will have to go back and rent a car. Since we can travel at wharf speed, we may need to rent the Enterprise.
There were days I think all we did was eat, so I
was glad to have some time on shore to
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Top L to R: Mango salad, tuna Middle L to R: Steak, Thalli Bottom L to R: Cheesecake, Ice cream |
walk up and down hills. This evening’s
dinner included Jamaica mango salad, Thalli, seared ahi tuna, grilled New York
strip loin, strawberry cheesecake, and tiramisu ice cream. So glad we didn’t go
hungry…
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Lights as we left St John's |
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